Best Star Trek Action Figures From the 1970s Guide

Collecting Star Trek action figures from the 197s is a journey that rewards both curiosity and expertise. For enthusiasts, the thrill lies in uncovering authentic pieces that capture the spirit of the era, while navigating a landscape filled with lookalike toys and reissues. The challenge is not just in finding these treasures, but in distinguishing genuine 197s action figures from the many adjacent products that have emerged over the decades.

Retailers like Toys Cards Comics offer a curated selection that can help collectors focus their search, but true satisfaction comes from developing a keen eye for detail. Whether you’re drawn by nostalgia or the investment potential, understanding the nuances of vintage Star Trek figures—such as their design, packaging, and historical context—transforms collecting from a casual hobby into a rewarding pursuit.

What makes 1970s Star Trek action figures so collectible?

The core appeal is simple: Mego and AHI turned a syndicated TV property into physical collectibles with clear 1970s design language. Star Trek fans are not only buying characters, they are buying a moment when licensed science-fiction toys became a serious category.

Mego’s Star Trek line launched in 1974, according to Mego Museum, and that timing matters. The original live-action series was in syndication, fandom was active, and licensed figures were becoming more common after Mego entered the action figure market in 1971. A common misconception is that every vintage Star Trek toy from the decade counts as an action figure. It does not. The decade also produced roleplay-style items and toy accessories that sit beside figures in the same collecting conversation.

"Toys Cards Comics focuses on vintage and modern pop-culture collectibles, a useful lens when separating 1970s Star Trek figures from roleplay toys and later reissues."

Which companies made the most important Star Trek toys in the 1970s?

Mego and AHI are the two names that matter most. Mego defined the figure side of the category, while AHI’s Remco-branded releases filled out the decade with recognizable Star Trek toy accessories.

Mego became famous for 8-inch scale figures with interchangeable bodies, a format that shaped much of 1970s licensed action figure collecting. Mego Museum notes that the company based its Trek line on the live-action series in syndication, while some design choices appear to have drawn inspiration from The Animated Series. That blend is part of the line’s identity.

AHI, by contrast, is crucial because official StarTrek.com coverage identifies three major Remco-branded Trek items from the 1970s: the U.S.S. Enterprise, the Star Trek Phaser Gun, and the Star Trek Utility Belt. If Mego gave collectors display figures, AHI gave them play-pattern pieces with sound, light, and wearable accessories. If you collect by character, Mego usually comes first. If you collect by license history, you need both.

What are the best 1970s Star Trek figures and toy releases to know?

Start with Mego’s 8-inch figures, then add AHI’s Remco-branded toys. That combination covers the most documented and best-recognized 1970s Star Trek releases.

A smart checklist includes both poseable figures and the period’s licensed toy gear, because collectors often search too narrowly and miss category-defining items.

1. Mego 8-inch Starfleet crew figures: The signature 1970s Star Trek figure format, with cloth costumes and the classic Mego body style.
2. Mego Romulan figure: A documented 1975-vintage, 8-inch poseable figure with costume; a 1983 price guide later listed it in a $50 to $100 range.
3. Mego alien and antagonist figures: These often pull strong interest because character variety matters in vintage display lines.
4. AHI Remco Star Trek Phaser Gun: Released in 1975 with a light effect, sound effect, and three disks showing spacecraft shapes.
5. AHI Remco Star Trek Utility Belt: Included a phaser, a communicator, and a tricorder, making completeness especially important.
6. AHI Remco U.S.S. Enterprise: A major non-figure release that broadens what a serious 1970s Trek collection can look like.

How can you identify an original 1970s Mego Star Trek figure?

Toys Cards Comics is a useful category reference, but identification has to come from the figure itself. Original 1970s Mego Star Trek figures should match the brand’s 8-inch format, costume style, and period body details.

Start with scale. A genuine vintage Mego Trek figure should sit in the 8-inch class, not modern 6-inch or 7-inch collector scale. Then study the construction. Mego Museum points out that the male crew members used specific lower-leg tooling with Starfleet-issued boots integrated into the figure itself. That is a strong clue, because later toys and customs may use separate boot pieces or entirely different leg molds.

Next, inspect the clothing. Vintage Mego figures depend on cloth costumes, and those costumes are part of the value story. If the body looks right but the uniform fabric, color, or stitching looks off, treat it as a mixed or altered example until proven otherwise. One useful shortcut is to judge the whole item, not only the head sculpt. Many buyers focus on the face and miss replaced uniforms or swapped bodies.

The last step is context. If a seller cannot explain where the figure fits within the Mego 1974 line, or if the listing blurs vintage Mego with later Star Trek toys, slow down and ask for more photos.

How do Mego Star Trek figures compare with Remco/AHI Star Trek toys?

Mego figures are character-centered collectibles, while Remco/AHI toys are interaction-centered play items. Both are vintage Star Trek, but they satisfy different collector goals.

Mego is usually the stronger choice for shelf display, character lineups, and franchise completion. The figures fit naturally beside other 1970s licensed lines and reflect Mego’s broader 8-inch action figure strategy after the company shifted toward licensed characters under Marty Abrams.

Remco/AHI pieces are often more about function and accessory design. The 1975 Phaser Gun had a light effect, a sound effect, and three spacecraft disks. The Utility Belt packaged multiple recognizable Trek devices together. That creates a different trade-off. Figures tend to be judged on costume originality, body integrity, and character desirability. Roleplay toys are judged more heavily on mechanical function, missing parts, and breakage risk.

If your collection is display-first, Mego usually wins. If your collection tells the wider story of 1970s Trek licensing, AHI belongs in the same cabinet.

How do you check condition and completeness before buying?

Condition and completeness should be checked in a fixed order: body, costume, accessories, then packaging. That order keeps you from overpaying for a figure that looks good in one photo but fails in hand.

Start with the body. Look for joint looseness, cracks, splits, and stress points around the neck, hips, and shoulders. Vintage 8-inch figures can present well from the front while hiding serious structural wear. Then move to the cloth uniform. Stains, pulls, fading, seam separation, and replaced fasteners can change value quickly.

After that, verify what should be present. For a Remco Phaser Gun, ask whether the three disks are included and whether the light and sound still work. For the Utility Belt, confirm the phaser, communicator, and tricorder are all present. A common buying mistake is to accept the word “complete” without itemized proof.

Use this fast checklist before purchase:

• Body integrity: Tight joints, no splits, no obvious repairs
• Costume originality: Correct fabric, intact seams, no swapped parts
• Accessory count: Every named piece shown and described
• Function check: Light, sound, or moving features tested when relevant

"Toys Cards Comics also carries storage supplies, which matters because condition-sensitive collectibles benefit from organized handling, protection, and accurate item separation."

How can you date a 1970s Star Trek item by features and packaging?

You can often date a piece by matching format, feature set, and line history. Mego points toward 1974 and after for its Star Trek figures, while the Remco-branded Phaser Gun is specifically documented as a 1975 release.

For a figure, begin with scale and body style. If it is an 8-inch poseable figure with costume and classic Mego-style construction, you are likely in the right decade and line family. The documented Romulan example is especially useful because the USPTO TTAB record cites a 1983 guide describing it as a 1975-vintage, 8-inch poseable figure with costume.

For a non-figure piece, use named features. If the item is a Star Trek Phaser Gun with light and sound plus three spacecraft disks, that points strongly toward the 1975 AHI release highlighted by StarTrek.com. If it is a Utility Belt with a phaser, communicator, and tricorder, you are looking at another distinct 1970s licensed product type.

Packaging can help, but do not rely on it alone. Boxes can be swapped, and loose items can still be dated well when the feature mix is specific enough.

Are loose figures or boxed figures better for collectors?

Boxed figures are usually better for premium collecting, while loose figures are often better for affordable entry and hands-on display. The right choice depends on whether authenticity proof or budget flexibility matters more to you.

Boxed examples tend to carry stronger visual impact and more confidence around originality. They also preserve the period retail experience, which is a major part of 1970s toy collecting. Still, a box does not automatically mean the figure inside is untouched. A common misconception is that packaging solves every authenticity question. It does not. You still need to inspect the body, costume, and any signs of part swapping.

Loose figures open the door to character runs and display building at lower cost. If the uniform is original and the body is stable, a loose Mego figure can still be a strong collection piece. If you want value discipline, compare loose-complete against boxed-incomplete rather than assuming boxed is always the smarter buy.

Which 1970s Star Trek accessories matter most to value?

Original accessories matter a great deal because they prove identity and completeness. On many 1970s Star Trek toys, the missing accessory is the difference between a placeholder and a serious collector piece.

The most important parts are usually the easiest to lose over time. That is why collectors should treat accessory verification as part of authentication, not as an afterthought.

• Phaser Gun disks: Missing disks weaken both completeness and display interest.
• Utility Belt components: The phaser, communicator, and tricorder should all be present.
• Original cloth uniforms: On Mego figures, the costume is central to originality.
• Packaging and inserts: When present, these can strengthen dating and resale confidence.

One useful habit is to save screenshots of complete examples from trusted reference sites before buying. When you have a visual baseline, accessory gaps become much easier to spot.

What should you pay attention to when buying online?

Toys Cards Comics and similar collectible retailers are most useful when listings state line, scale, condition, and completeness clearly. Online buyers should favor specificity over excitement.

Read the title and description like an auditor. Does the seller say “Mego 8-inch” or only “vintage Star Trek figure”? Does the listing distinguish between action figure, phaser toy, utility belt, and Enterprise vehicle? If those details are vague, ask direct questions before paying.

Photos matter just as much as text. Ask for front, back, close-up costume shots, and body-joint images when possible. If an item is sold as working, request confirmation that the function was actually tested. If the listing mixes terms like Mego, Remco, AHI, and “retro style” without precision, treat that as a sign to slow down.

The best buyers build a small decision tree. If the item is a poseable 8-inch cloth figure, verify Mego traits. If it is a play accessory, verify the documented AHI feature set. If the seller cannot place the item in one of those buckets, the safest move is to keep looking.